Paris Men's Week: Loewe's dynamic lazy wind is a good start?

A reliable pleasure for Paris Men's Week in the past five years is a static show by Jonathan Anderson for Loewe. In the concept of the interesting design of the French duo M/M, they are usually a kind of surrealistic joy, a dream complement to clothing and accessories, often making people feel that these pieces come from the fantasy of a quirky artist. . But this time, Anderson broke the past and moved his fashion show to the runway. “We need to show how the clothes look when they are worn,” he said in a defense. "The current business has quadrupled." In other words, this is a serious decision.

He insisted that this is a good presentation. When the clothes are in motion, you can clearly know if they are excellent products, but the static display is more of a performance. If the performance of the model goes up and down and loses the humor and charm of the witty stage styles in the static exhibition, then it really highlights the unique charm of this special series. Anderson ejected a series of words to describe the fluttering leather legs worn by most models. Military boots? Shoe cover? Fisherman's clothing? Or is it related to fetishism in the early 1980s? When hip hop singer Frank Ocean appeared on the designer's Instagram, they also looked like leather pants when they were wearing them. On the runway, they are more like the pants of the Argentine Gaucho (with a fuzzy connection with the brand's Spanish roots).

How do you make basic things fashionable? In the designer's opinion this is his challenge at Loewe. Long-lasting play may be a solution, like those leather pants. Then there's a slender sweater with semi-precious stones (Anderson compares them to the Milky Way), and a jacket with crazy blasting yarn on the edge, and a shirt with a perfect postcard on it, mimicking Marilyn Monroe (Marilyn Monroe)'s face. He said: "This season, some such beautiful but incredible tragedies are a clue to me." But it seems that the brightly colored poppy clothes have almost no tragic color.

But what followed this show was a feeling of burnout, perhaps a melancholy in burnout (perhaps a mesmerizing bud in melancholy). Several long tunic knit shirts with the lines of the late Keith Vaughan. They are a bit sad. On the other hand, the lazy of Anderson's suit is completely different, with a silhouette of a women's wear. “We kept the women's waistline and increased the back to make it swing forward.” The fluidity is very good, the white satin lapels with pinstripes are extremely elegant.