Fashion Week Watch Notes | Design Roots, Cultural Difficulties

Mercedes-Benz China International Fashion Week 2017 spring and summer series of the first day of release - Beijing Hotel, 751D·PARK, China Central Place, the power of the wild, flying sand, stone, time and space, watching three shows. "There is a round-trip, the heart also spits." Seeing the Chinese local clothing brands, from the respective genes, the root-seeking design, their own cultural hardships, the same way, enjoy the pain and happiness that cannot be avoided.

(one)

The opening show of Mercedes-Benz China International Fashion Week, NE·TIGER's "People of the Republic of China" Chinese clothing conference.

It’s clever. In the past two days, Chen Danqing and the "New Weekly" talked about what was called "the Republic of China Fan"? He slowly answered: "The Republic of China is rich, it is a national landscape of large-scale transformation of classical culture. Looking back, tradition, It is not to be isolated from the world. It is only the unfortunate fact that the overall style of the Republic of China, the collective personality of the Republic of China, has been established, and only when it looks like it has been suspended, changed, and irreparable."

Between words, he mentioned the Republic of China, and he had an unrequited initial echo, and there was a slap in the face... "It’s only short-lived, so it’s impressive."

It is out of a similar complex, with clothing as the symbol, the character description of the "Republic of China" and the fashion situation, restored in the first show of this season's China International Fashion Week, NE·TIGER's Haute Couture reception. To be frank, this is not a refreshing style theme. I remember that the women’s brand Sifan’s 2016 theme annual meeting also used the Republic of China as a situational curtain for the article “Poetry, Book, Etiquette, Music” – but later This year's annual meeting is more focused on communication itself, and NE·TIGER is to link the so-called Republic of China temperament with this season's design works. How to use the language design and the detailed recognition of clothing design, at least self-explanatory, chewing It’s a big challenge to come out of the country’s soul.

For the creation of the situation in the Republic of China, NE·TIGER can be described as a good intention. In detail, even the seats on the spot were planned to be seated in the most representative cities of the five Republics during the period of “Tianjin, Wuhan, Nanjing, Beiping, Shanghai” – my position was seated in “Shanghai”, when I was seated, my heart fell. It is the saying of Zhang Ailing, a woman from the Republic of China: "Shanghai people, bad. But this is bad, and it is ultimately measured." So I thought, this show, the eyes are going back and forth, and my heart is also voicing. It’s not a slogan from the beginning of the song, but it’s an alternative kind of respect.

The whole stage of the T-stage music, the rhythm is bright, and it is sure to filter out the arrogance of the late Qing Dynasty, and there are fresh sorghum and rushing undercurrents of the Republic of China. The black and white image rendering of the Revolution of 1911 seems to be too deliberate, but it is also the most straightforward way to give the background color of the era. The opening performance of the pipa player Zhao Cong and the pianist Liu Xingchen is very suitable. The lingering stream of the Chinese sturgeon and the melodious romantic blending of the piano are the mixed feelings of the Republic of China, the Western flavor and the classical taste. - With the gradual advancement of the show, the dance artist Wu Shuai's physical expression, the newsboy's shuttle in the middle of the scream, the three models sneaked in and walked freely... All the situational expressions are designed around the Republic of China, the typical impression The interface has a daily atmosphere.

Going back to the clothing itself, this season's work is released, with gorgeous costumes based on the Beiyang warlord period, exquisite dresses with simple shapes, aristocratic suede costumes in the late Qing Dynasty, and a slanted blouse with the student's upper and lower body student costumes as the prototype, and NE·TIGER The main Chinese dress cheongsam. With different wearing groups as the main axis of the series, the release structure of the works is relatively clear and complete.

Despite the distinction between different series and consistent design tonality, they are still elegant and elegant. In the design of the dress, it can be seen that the traditional Chinese embroidery, hook-embroidered embroidery, and rice-bead embroidery process are applied to velvet, silk heavy satin, woolen and other fabrics. In detail, the "Beast Head Knocker" button has its square inch; the color of the slanted blouse is based on black, white, gray and pink, with water blue, lake green and vermilion, and the superimposed effect of the fabric is used; still focusing on the fabric of classical charm, with brocade, heavy silk satin and natural wood, match georgette, double Palace satin, brocade, lace and so on. From the perspective of the degree of completion of the work, NE·TIGER's use of the craftsmanship and the selective matching of the fabric materials can be described as light and familiar.

If you play the overall impression, from the makeup to the clothing itself, it should be a good show of the interpretation of the temperament of the Republic of China. Safe, appropriate, and expected, but can't be said to be amazing - the temperament of the Republic of China is diversified, there is a city that is arrogant, it has its famous family, it has its small bourgeois, and its gang is angry. There is a smoke and fire that is as low as it is in the dust, and it has its own arrogance. In any case, there is a spirit of arrogance and arbitrage. Slightly but not addictive is that after watching many of NE·TIGER's shows, its aesthetic preferences seem to have formed its mindset. And this kind of mindset has nothing to do with two possible fates - one is to become a classic style that is always circulated. The other is that the old man squats in the autumn. ——I always feel that in the root of Chinese traditional culture, we need to translat and graft more modern and fashion tensions. If we can “bad” a more distinct personality of the times, “bad” makes it reasonable and makes people I feel that the cultural hardships of NE·TIGER in the field of Chinese clothing will walk even more and more, and will also usher in a new atmosphere.

(two)

Like the main Chinese costume, let’s talk about Gong Hangyu’s modern cheongsam show at the 751D·PARK Central Hall. As the designer who participated in China International Fashion Week for the first time, Gong Hangyu's design, no matter how complicated the technique, does not have excessively redundant expression, at least in the pure sense of the senses, most of her design works are comfortable. of.

Inspired by the Chinese traditional 24 solar terms and the changing seasons. Gong Hangyu believes that the way to design life is to make it everyday. And she also said that it is just borrowing the word "cheongsam". The most wanted thing is to give the cheongsam a new life. In the form of fashion cheongsam, it will blend with the depth of modern life. She completely filtered out the sense of ritual that the cheongsam lived in. The sense of stage was still strong, but she could see the ingenuity of her deconstructing the traditional cheongsam in detail. For example, the cheongsam, which is treated with a micro-arched shoulder, is traditionally worn with cut-out trousers. The front end is long, the asymmetric design of the women's tuxedo skirt, it is commendable that there are several sets of fabrics on the printing pattern, black and white, blue yellow, black and green ink weather, the transition is very natural, there are different solar terms The natural beauty of Chinese landscapes.

If it is a little regret, the model is really not ideal. A woman wearing a cheongsam can sometimes be weak and arrogant, sometimes she can get a good charm. The sense of skin and flesh is the only element of the cheongsam media. However, the professional eyes and the extremely graceful waistline are the must-have for the model.

(three)

At nine o'clock in the evening, Huamao Center, "Life and Exception", the 20th anniversary of the exception brand release show. Starting from 751D·PARK, Ning Caichen flew the same rhythm. At 8:40 pm, friends have been remotely paged: there are many people, speedy, and explosive. Inside and outside the show, it is already crowded.

Fortunately, catching up with the whole process, inadvertently seeing, there is an exception to the boss Mao Jihong, in the morning at the Liskar Denton Hotel, and he had a 40-minute separate conversation, waiting for him to slowly enter the exchange state, and finally The mercury rushes out of the way, and when it comes to the best, it can't stop. - Frankly speaking, he is not a person who is good at "textualizing" ideas and emotions, and his words are slightly divergent. However, it does not prevent him from occasionally issuing a golden sentence. For example: "Business is a reality defined by rationalists, doing business, it can be very romantic" - "I hope that the exception design is the creativity given to bones, skin, and even breathing. The exception is Consumers in the age of change, the hope is that the flow is also attached."

While watching the show, the side is also secretly confirming that Mao Jihong and the exceptions are extraordinary, the first is the ability to control the visual thinking of images. This pair of clothing, this kind of media carrier with visual design as the top priority, is very easy and necessary - the end of the show, the friends of the circle of friends to take pictures of the extraordinary blockbuster, light, angle, eyes, loneliness, Primitive, free... all without exception, all beings are philosophers. And a content launch conference, its most important function is to be able to produce a three-dimensional, multi-dimensional imagination space for the public to play and interpret.

By the way, the show of China International Fashion Week will be located in Dawang Road, and the Huamao Center, which is a large-scale international brand, will be a new station. Fashion is about the art of the situation. This situation is related to the situation in the show, and it is also related to the situation outside the show. The situation is there, and it is natural. Fashion is not a hotel hotel that is sitting in danger. Its essence is the integration and experience of the atmosphere. The infiltration of the high-end hot business circle shows that China International Fashion Week has extended its industry value to commercial value.

The exception show is a sense. There is no incandescent burning light, the dark atmosphere is suitable for the chasing of the light, the models walk on the ground, less stage sense, but become a prominent protagonist. Main show visuals design into the "clothing" of fabric texture and classic embroidery process exceptions, folding traces stretches intertwined, symbolizing the convergence of two decades zeitgeist, a profound connection with the community, the general public. The side walls cast some typical social images from the past 20 years, like the memory key - what is the Chinese clothing brand not for the times, and the creator of the times? At that time, there was a small touch of the same frequency resonance.

Let's talk about the clothing itself. Mao Jihong said that he has always had a special liking for the Song culture. The natural leisure, the combination of heaven and man, seeing the sentient beings, the feelings are unknown. On the spring and summer 2017 show, the exceptions for men's and women's wear show the simplicity, warmth, and simplicity of the world. On women's wear, there are white clouds, blazing red, and green like tourmalines. There is a rock-like yellow, black with the same ink, no boring everyday, and the concept of the fog cover of the Yunyun Mountain has a fresh and free atmosphere. On men's wear, it emphasizes the unconstrained and free-spirited "type", the occasional strap, the shackle buckle, the overhanging long windbreaker, the hard work and the gentle and comfortable interlacing, the sense of proportion is very appropriate.

The entire show or the Chinese new generation violinist Gao Shen lived on Vivaldi's "Four Seasons" violin concerto, nice and relaxed - I thought it would be best to listen to music that makes every pore clear and breathable, no Forced, less coercive, warm and thick. I have asked Mao Jihong before, doubting that the simple and elegant meaning is combined with the Western-style violin, will there be a gas field reprimand, and now I will not worry.

(four)

Throughout the three shows, they are still hard, not perfunctory, have their attitude. It is a pity that the time relationship, four times a day, was too late to miss the U/TI conference. But a common sentiment is that for Chinese local clothing brands, the root of culture has never been a collage of fragments. The search for culture has never been a sightseeing tour, but a “striking journey” of physical and mental exhaustion. At the same time, the design of the things is also a matter of opinion, can take all the needs from the vast world and the heavy culture, depicting the heart, reinventing, is "getting."

As a fashion, the tireless viewers and users can meet a serious show, rather than the unclear cloud cover, which is “getting”. I also wish that China International Fashion Week in the next few days will be able to see more serious and attitude-oriented shows.

(Wang Qing Ying: deputy director of the China Textile Information Center trends section

Associate Editor, Textile and Fashion Trends Outlook