Cashmere clothing special printing knowledge introduction
First, the cashmere structure In the wool fiber, there are sheep wool, goat wool, wool-free, etc. The cashmere is a fluff obtained from the goat wool. It has the characteristics of light, fine, soft, soft and slippery, etc. ". Cashmere is a slender solid cylinder, curled, fiber structure is divided into three layers, namely, scales, cortex and medullary layer. Cashmere is the biggest feature of cashmere sweaters, due to the presence of shrinkage also caused the fabric size instability (washed sweaters tend to become smaller). Embossing printing is the use of cashmere fiber surface scales shrinking principle And made into. Second, the mechanism of shrinking Under the action of moist heat and chemical reagents, animal hair fibers are repeatedly squeezed by external mechanical forces, and the fiber aggregates gradually shrink tightly and interpenetrate each other to entanglement and interlace the felt wool. This feature is known as the shrinkage of wool fibers. The fabric can be shrunk, the reason for this is very complicated. The mechanism by which the wool fiber is shrunk is generally due to the following reasons. The front has been observed under the microscope that there are many scales covering the surface of the cashmere fibers. The free ends of the scales point to the direction of the tip of the cashmere fibers. When a felting agent is present, the cashmere fibers are moistened and expand, causing the scales to open. At this time, a certain amount of external force is applied to the cashmere, and the cashmere starts to move, so that the wool fiber has directional friction. That is, the friction coefficient of the scale is small and the coefficient of the inverse friction is large. There exists a relationship between the reverse and the smooth. The coefficient difference (ie, the coefficient of friction of the inverse scale in the case of fiber friction is always greater than the coefficient of friction in the direction of the scale). Coupled with the environment in which the damp heat and chemical additives (condensers) are present, when the sweater is subjected to The repetitive kneading action of the mechanical external force creates a tendency of one-way movement toward the root end of the fiber. In addition, the excellent extensibility, elasticity, and space curl of the wool make the wool fiber easier to move, and thus the mutual inter-fibers Interspersed entanglement, resulting in interwoven felting, hair ends gradually exposed on the surface of the fabric, so that the fabric becomes excellent appearance, rich hand, soft texture, with good thermal effect. Practice has proved: sheep There are more scales than rough wool, so fine cashmere is better than thick wool. Wool is more than rabbit fur scales, so the wool is better than rabbit hair. In addition to "scales" and "elasticity "Besides, based on certain characteristics and experimental phenomena of wool, people also explained the mechanism of cashmere shrinking from different perspectives, such as "de-liberation theory," "curl theory," "strain-relaxation theory," but it can be used by everyone. The generally accepted main point is that the linear shrinkage of wool is determined by the directional friction effect and the high degree of tensile recovery. Both are indispensable. The former is called the brake factor and the latter is called the dynamic factor. Third, the embossed print design The embossed printing is also called embossing and finishing. The shrinking technology is a special finishing process for cashmere knitted garments. It is a unique process different from any other knitting industry. Therefore, the embossed printing is the organic combination of the printing process and the cashmere fabric finishing process. The design of the flower pattern is different from that of an ordinary print pattern. Generally, the design of the pattern design of the printing plant and the design of the printing process are completed in two stages of production, and even two separate departments carry out each other. Because the embossed printing contains the printing process, There are two parts of organic combination of the velvety process to produce excellent products. That is to say, the art designer must communicate with the process designer and work closely with each other, and the two parties must learn from each other so that a good pattern can be produced through a reasonable and advanced process. Good completion of sweater embossed printing task.Because the clothes before and after the shrinking must be reborn, such as size, density, appearance, feel and other changes, resulting in full texture of the clothing, texture, color, soft, feel creamy The full play of the physical characteristics of cashmere fiber, forming a unique appearance effect. For any tissue texture, chaos phenomenon will occur after the shrinking process. Therefore, the tissue lines commonly used in cashmere sweaters in the past may not be suitable for the technical requirements of shrinking cashmere sweaters. Therefore, it must be taken into account during sample design. After shrinking, the effect of appearance changes on clothing will be an important part of cashmere garment design. Embossed printing is mainly applied to wool sweaters that need to be plucked. It is the use of screen printing machines, according to fabric properties and Flower pattern features Plate making, color adjustment, proofing, color paste deployment and a series of activities will reflect the pattern on the garment. Fourth, embossed printing mechanism and technology Process: the production of a film a stretch of the net a photosensitive plate a development of a printing deployment (the above process is very familiar with the silk screen workers go to the machine) on the machine printing a drying steam steaming (or baking) a finishing One dyeing. The embossed print of the sweater is made with partial (fingerprint) shrinkage prevention. The rest of the parts are napped and the patterned part can not be plucked (because the anti-shrinkage agent is added to the screen printing paste) without pattern Partly because of the velvet and piled up, forming a rich suede, strong contrast under light, giving people a visually striking three-dimensional pattern, so that the printed pattern on the surface of the fabric rich convex feeling, this relief effect is not weaving out It is not the embossing effect formed by "burnt-out" or "foam" printing. Here is the appropriate amount of anti-shrinkage agent added to the printing paste. 1. Cashmere sweater soaked, water temperature 35 °C ~ 40 °C, bath ratio 1:20 ~ 1:30, soaking time 1o ~ 20min. Drying wool sweater is more difficult, between the soaked sweater fiber The lubricity makes it easy to produce relative motion, the wool fibers are wet and expand, and the scales are open, which is conducive to the mutual interlacing of the fibers. The wet fibers have good extensibility and elasticity and can easily cause the directional friction effect of the fibers. 2. Milling, neutral detergent 0.5% ~ 1.5%, PH value 7 ~ 7.5, shrinkage time is 10-30min, according to the type of product is determined. Mechanical external force: If the external force is not added when shrinking, between the fibers are not When relative movement occurs, the wool fibers will not be intertwined, and the external force should be evenly distributed when shrinking. 3. Cleaning, need to be cleaned 2 times, 2-3min/time. 4. Drying, the temperature is 85 °C ~ 90 °C, time is 20-25min. (B) Organic Solvent Milling The process is as follows: Sweater cleaning (temperature 25°C～30°C), a velveteen (auxiliary tetrachloroethylene: time 5～1omin), drying (temperature 85°C～90°C, time 15-20min) It is sealed. Sixth, relief printing matters needing attention 1. The sweater is placed on a sweater-shaped hanger made of stainless steel wire. The length and width of the hanger is slightly larger than the sweater, which is about 10% to 15%. It is easy to penetrate the printing paste. After printing, it is blown dry, and the printing is dry and then baked. 2. Washing oil is to make the sweater oil content is not higher than 0.5%, to ensure that the sweater is fully absorbed in the anti-shrinkage resin, in the pre-baking or baking, the resin cross-linked film integrity, will not affect the embossed effect. 3. The pure wool fabrics of worsted and woolen fabrics can be embossed and printed to obtain a special relief three-dimensional effect. The thin-tissue pure wool woven fabric has the best effect. For low-twist coarse textiles and gabardine etc. Things should not be used in this process. 4. The choice of embossed printing paste, such as sodium alginate, should be selected such that the paste does not react with the synthappret bap resin and is easily washed away in the velveteen process. 5. The points of textile printing plate making: As textiles have a large number of printings and require high printing plate resistance, the photosensitive plastic must be fully exposed (photosynthesis) to enhance the degree of printing resistance. If nylon is used, The price of the screen is cheap, the quantity of the printing is large, the tension of the screen will be reduced, and it is not necessary to carry out the film recovery. If the number of the printing is small, the solvent-based photosensitive adhesive should be used when making the plate, which can be carried out after printing. Film stripping recovery screen. 6. Selection of scraper in printing: For different patterns, the type of scraper used and the cross-section of the knife edge are different. The round mouth scraper with low hardness, the large knife edge area, the amount of slurry for printing, the printing effect is good, and is most suitable for Montreal pattern; high hardness scraper, small knife area, less slurry, suitable for point, line fine pattern, clear edge pattern after printing. Polyester Cotton,Cotton Polyester Fabric,Polyester Blend,Cotton Polyester Blend Fabric Suzhou Zhiqin Textile CO.LTD , https://www.zhiqintextile.com